Miami Nice

 

A few months back my colleague, and good friend, Cassie and I chatted during a boozy lunch at a local pub about her husband’s recent ‘guys’ weekend’ in Vegas. As we talked about how much fun he’d had with his friends, the wheels starting turning and the next thing we knew we were in full planning mode for a girls’ weekend of our own…in Miami.

Luckily for us, we had zero trouble convincing our friends Cory and Emma to join us…it helped that Air Canada was having an amazing seat sale…less than $400 for our return flights to Miami. Once everyone was onboard and the flights were booked, planning for this trip began in earnest.

Where would we eat? What would we see? What would we do? Were there any hot spots we wanted to check out? We had 3 months to plan all of this out…phew!

Flight Delays and Free Alcohol

We arrived at the airport 3 hours before our flight and found out when we checked in that the flight would be delayed by at least 4 hours…so we had 7 hours at the airport to look forward to. What does one do to kill 7 hours at the airport? Duh, head to the Air Canada Lounge of course! I don’t know about you, but I think 5-6 hours of free cocktails before a flight is ALWAYS a great idea. Don’t get me wrong, we did eat some of the ‘shitty snacks’not my description, but surprisingly appropriate that they had on hand, as I would never encourage drinking on an empty stomach.

Is it just me, or does free booze taste better?  We drank port, pinot grigio, Riesling, scotch, ceasars, rye, gin, vodka, baileys, you name it, and if it was on the shelf, we drank it and it was glorious!

Fast forward 5 ½ hours later to this group of…ahem…’ladies’ boarding our flight to Miami…all sporting a comfortable buzz and our stomachs filled with chocolate chip cookies. We were on our way…finally!

The flight itself was fast and uneventful. We stepped off the plane, collected our luggage and hopped into a cab to make our way to the hotel.

Though our flight was uneventful, our 20 minute cab ride to the hotel however? Not so much. Our collective buzz had worn off and what was left of it quickly disappeared after a sobering road rage incident between an overly aggressive driver and our cabbie. We were driving along the highway when some A-1 douchebag rode right up our asses flashing his headlights in order to get our driver to switch lanes. Our cabbie didn’t move over right away, so the guy kept flashing his headlights as he got closer and closer to the back of our car. Finally, the cab driver pulled into the other lane only to have the dickhead in the car behind pass us, pull right in front of us and then slam on his brakes. Welcome to Miami folks! Well that was fucking terrifying…calm the fuck down people!

We made it to the hotel – safely – and checked-in, only none of our credit cards worked, with the exception of the  Aussie’s…thank God we brought Emma along! Once that was sorted, we made our way up to our room.

We’d booked a double room with 2 queen beds at The Hyatt Centric South Beach…I know, pretty risky to do with 4 women sharing a room and one bathroom, but we live on the edge like that. Anyway, our room was quite nice and surprisingly spacious with an ocean view…sweet!

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Room with a View…what a sight to wake up to!

Given that our flight had been delayed and it was quite late, we were happy to chat for a bit, check out the room, change into our pjs and hit the hay. Which is exactly what we did.

The next morning, I’d like to say that we got up bright and early, but who am I kidding. We rolled out of bed around 8am and began the long and arduous process of having 4 women  – sharing one bathroom – get ready to go grab breakfast. We’re all pretty easygoing so it wasn’t a stressful process. We took turns showering and getting dressed then made our way out onto the street.

Yeah, can I just say that it was pretty fucking hot…the heat hit us like a wall. Undeterred, we walked a short distance to a breakfast spot that Cassie had been to previously, The Social Club.  Bonus, if we checked in on yelp – free mimosas! So check in we did and the mimosas were delicious! Breakfast overall was pretty fantastic. We had the usual eggs benny (some of us) while others (Cory) were a little more adventurous ordering something with a bit more Latin influence. Whatever it was, it looked delicious and I wanted it!

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Social Club’s Eggs Benny

After breakfast, we made our way to the local Walgreens to pick up a cooler and some alcoholic bevies for our day at the beach. We walked the hundred metres or so, planted our asses in our umbrella chairs and committed ourselves to a full day of beach bumming.

Day 1 – sorted!

After a sun soaked day of drinking cold beer on a hot beach, we dragged ourselves back to the hotel to shower, change and make our way to dinner. We had made reservations at Yardbird and boy were we looking forward to it. The reviews for this place are through the roof with praise for some of the tastiest Southern comfort food you will ever have the pleasure of putting in your mouth.

We ordered the fried green tomatoes, mac & cheese, chicken and waffles, BBQ ribs and washed it all down with a bottle of white wine and infused bourbon flights. Let me just say this…we all agreed the fried chicken was the best any of us have ever had…like EVER! Mixed reviews on the bourbon flight offerings, however, the salted maple bourbon was a clear favourite. Everything we ate there was delicious…incredibly delicious. We also had an amazing server, he gave us tips on where to go for drinks and dancing later and he did not steer us wrong.

After dinner, we made our way to The Bodega, an obscure looking taco stand, on the recommendation of our server. You see, this place is an actual taco stand with a secret. If you walk through the porta potty door to the far right of the taco truck (don’t let urinals and graffiti wall deter you) you will discover one of the best nightclubs in SoBe. The drinks were relatively inexpensive, with an eclectic crowd, but the jewel in the crown here is their kick ass DJ. He played songs from the 80s to current and his mixes were wicked. He had us dancing the entire time we were there. Just when one mix was over and you thought ‘wow, that was the best song ever’…he’d follow it up with an even more amazing mix. The place was a bit empty when we got there, but filled up quickly and by the time we left, it was packed to the gills with a line up snaking down the street and for good reason.

Day 2 – The Fun Continues

We played it pretty low key on the second day, grabbing breakfast at a place up the street called Sunny’s. The service wasn’t the best, but the food was pretty delicious. I had the ‘Come Kale Away With Me’ breakfast bowl consisting of pureed frozen bananas, kale, almond milk, topped with sliced kiwi, puffed quinoa, chia seeds and flaked coconut. I honestly wasn’t expecting it to be as delicious as it was, but it sorta blew my mind. Once again, our yelp check-in garnered us a free mimosa. It’s important to note that wi-fi is not available here unless you’re a registered guest of the hotel or you ask the hotel reception to provide you with the wifi password…apparently it changes everyday and the hotel does not share that information with the restaurant staff at Sunny’s.

After our leisurely breakfast, we split up…with some choosing a pool day and others deciding to go shopping for bathing suits. The bathing suit I packed was literally disintegrating – I’d had it for over 15 years and it had seen better days…the straps were actually leaching some sort of gunk akin to motor oil or the grease from a bicycle chain…disgusting. Anyway, we stopped in a SHAN on Collins and looked around there, tried on a few things, but didn’t find anything. We then decided to venture into Runway Swimwear, also on Collins…what a fucking mistake that was. The woman who helped us was super nice at first but turned into a miserable, eye-rolling troll the second I told her that I needed to think about whether or not I wanted to spend $300 on a bikini.  Once I told her that, she forbade me from trying on anymore bathing suits.  When Emma told her that she wasn’t going to buy anything either, the woman snatched the swimsuits from her hands and said ‘Really?  You’re not buying anything?’…incredulous she went off in a huff, rolling her eyes and uttering something, which I’m pretty sure was meant to offend.  Anyway, we left, who needs that shit, and found a place up the street  – Surf Style – where the bikinis were 1/3 the price and service was way better.  We both ended up buying really cute bikinis.

Turdpocalypse

WARNING: I’ll be talking shit for a moment…literally.

Once we were back at the hotel, we went up to our room to change into our new bikinis and meet up with Cory and Cassie at the hotel pool. We noticed that the room had been cleaned as the beds had been made and we had fresh towels…yay! Another thing we noticed was that whoever had cleaned the room had also used the toilet since it was most definitely not clean and the offending party had left us a lovely gift of a dirty toilet filled with yellow water and disintegrating toilet paper.

Now, I really had to go to the bathroom at this point and told Emma I would meet up with the rest of them at the pool in a few minutes. Fast forward to me laying a huge, stinking, double coiler in our toilet only to discover, to my abject horror, that the damn toilet would not flush! WTF did I eat?  Why was this happening?  OMG…OMG…OMFG!  I tried everything and couldn’t get it to work! I debated leaving it there and praying for some sort of miracle where that brown monster in the bowl would magically disappear through some sort of spontaneous flushing phenomenon, but I knew that the toilet miracle I was hoping for was highly unlikely. So, I did the one thing I never wanted to do…I called the front desk and asked them to send help.

 

Help arrived shortly thereafter in the form of a really nice plumber.  Words alone cannot express how embarrassed and humiliated I was when I explained to him what had happened.  To make matters worse, the stench emanating from that cursed bathroom was beyond anything I’ve ever experienced.  I felt such pity for this poor man whose job it was to fix this particular problem.  I wanted to leave the room, but felt such a tremendous sense of guilt…like this man was going into battle against a literal shit storm and I couldn’t leave…I had to see it through.  Fuck!  Why did I eat so much?  What’s wrong with me?

I tried to remain upbeat and maintain a sense of humour about the whole situation…but the smell was so bad.  After about 20 minutes of fiddling with the toilet, he managed to fix it, and when that toilet finally flushed, the gushing sound of the water as it washed that ginormous shit down the drain was like music to my ears.

As he left and I thanked him profusely, I couldn’t help but think to myself, ‘thank God I am never going to have to see this man again’…only to end up in the elevator with him not 10 minutes later.  Jesus Christ!  Really?!!  I was still so embarrassed by the whole situation that I fumbled with the elevator keys and ended up prolonging my humiliation even further.  Finally, thank God, the elevator doors opened up on the 3rd floor and I practically ran out of the elevator.  Why?! Why!!!

As I sheepishly joined my friends poolside, the horror of what I’d just lived through was fresh in my mind…I needed a drink…pronto!  I told my friends what happened and I could tell that they were really supportive, even if they were laughing their asses off, tears streaming down their faces…FML!

A couple of hours later, it was dinner time and we had reservations at one of the best ceviche restaurants in Miami…so exciting.

We arrived at OLA and were seated immediately. The ambiance of this restaurant was a complete 180 from Yardbird the night before.  From the moment our server handed us our menus we knew we were in for an amazing experience.   We ordered strategically from the tasting menu in order to ensure that we would have an opportunity to try EVERYTHING. The anticipation for this meal was epic.  The tasting menu offered 4 different ceviches. Fire & Ice – a cobia marinated in sour orange, red onion, cilantro, and jalapeno over a pear granita, Salmon Ceviche – spicy mandarin juice, cucumbers, shallots, chives, cilantro, topped with crispy capers, Hamachi Nikkei – yuzu, thai basil, togarashi, cilantro, sweet soy glaze, crushed seaweed, and sesame seeds and then finally, Corvina Cevich – lime juice, cilantro, red onion, limo peppers and Peruvian crispy corn.  Each ceviche was as exotic and succulent as the next, and the food looked incredibly sexy…can you even say that about food?  Anyway, the food was sexy.  The mind blowing ceviche course was followed by a beef tartare taco, grilled shrimp, and corn and then short rib empanadas.  Final course was entrees and they did not disappoint either – Red snapper filet, Roast Cuban pork, Lomo Saltado, and Sugar Cane Tuna.  The entire meal was absolute bliss.  Each of us had our favourites, and surprisingly none of us agreed on the same dishes.

It’s pretty amazing to me that we could even manage to walk out of this restaurant after eating everything that we did, but we had plans for later that night and nothing was going to get in the way of that.

Cassie had made reservations for us on a party boat which was leaving from Biscayne Bay at 9pm.  We arrived at Biscayne Bay with about 30 minutes to spare before the boat left port.

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Scenes from Biscayne Bay

With all that time on our hands, what else was there to do but drink.  We ordered a bucket of coronas and got started.  After downing our beers, we walked over the line up of folks waiting to board the boat…let me just say, what a fucking shit show.  One guy in the line was so drunk already that he had managed to puke all over himself and pass out in the line.  His friend kept waking him up to make sure he wouldn’t miss the party.  What a mess.  Cory was now in full panic mode…this crowd was putting her way, and I mean WAY, out of her comfort zone.  We boarded the boat and after checking out the crowd, we knew that his was not our scene…like AT ALL.  However don’t they say that life begins at the edge of your comfort zone?  So, we threw caution to the wind and decided to suck it up and join the party.  Personally, I knew this was going to be a disaster when every single song the DJ played started with that bloody airhorn sound…not to mention that the age range on the boat was anyone between the ages of 2 and 102.  YIKES!

So…as we huddled together, careful to not make eye contact with anyone on the boat we didn’t know, the boat left port and we were off.  We had found refuge from the madness at the back of the boat on the lower level, right next to the heads…where Cory overheard one of our fellow passengers tell another how beautiful the washrooms were.  About 5 minutes after we left port, the captain made an announcement on the loud speaker that we would be returning to port immediately because the speakers weren’t working.  Hallelujah!

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Waiting to leave the shore…

Boat cruise over…thankfully…now what?  Our waiter the night before had mentioned something about Nikki Beach, so that’s where we headed…

We arrived at Nikki Beach and after negotiating with the hostess at the door, our cover charge was waived and we made our way in. We were immediately struck by two things, the sheer size of the place, and the beautiful setting.  We settled into a set of sofas on the sand and ordered a round of champagne.  After toasting our good fortune of narrowly escaping death on the party boat, we sipped our champagnes and soaked it all in.

20160711_001337It’s moments like this when I remind myself to take it all in and to make an effort to fully ‘be’ in that moment.  Looking up at the night sky through the palm trees above and feeling the ocean breeze on my skin while sharing stories with my friends – these are the moments I live for.  These are the moments we should all live for.

“Who wants to go for swim?  The beach is right over there through the shrubs.” Cory had been itching to get into the water ever since we’d arrived here.  I was having none of it, having witnessed a very large ‘fish’ swim along a crowded beach the day before.  People were screaming and running from the water like a scene out of Jaws.  “I’m good ladies…besides, someone needs to stay on shore to report your shark attack to the authorities, and of course, call your families and let them know of your untimely demise.”  Our entire interaction felt like the opening credits to some cheesy horror movie.  Four women on vacation in a strange city, venture off to a deserted beach after a night of drinking…cut to the next morning – coroners van parked in the sand, with four body bags being loaded into the back…

Yes, my imagination does get the best of me at times…I digress.

After downing the last of the champers we walked across the path, through the shrubs and onto the beach.  What an incredible sight!  Yes, it was pitch black at first, but once all the lights on our camera phones were turned off the moonlight was all we needed to navigate.  The beach was pretty much abandoned, with a couple of young men hanging out near one of the hotel huts.  We slowly made our way across the beach toward the water.  The waves were much higher at night and, as we got closer to the water, the only sound you could hear was the crashing of the waves onto the shore.  After debating whether or not to go into the water, Cory, Cassie and Emma slowly and carefully waded in while I stood onshore, my feet firmly planted in the cool beach sand, looking up at the night sky.  In the distance I could still here the music from the club, and see the city lights past the line of shrubs and palm tree and all of this gave me a great sense of comfort as I stood on this desolate beach.  After about 10 minutes of frolicking in the waves, my friends returned and we made our way back towards the drone of the club and the city lights.  I was tempted to walk the boardwalk back to our hotel, but my friends thought it might be dangerous as the boardwalk is not always well lit in some parts and it was well past midnight at this point.  Deciding to play it safe, we took a taxi back to the hotel. Yawn!

Last Day

On our final day in Miami and we once again decided to kill a few hours by the pool before grabbing lunch and heading to the airport.  Morning was uneventful, but lunch, lunch was spectacular.  After poring over countless reviews that morning while sunbathing (South Beach has a lot of amazing restaurants and there are so many Mexican food joints in SoBe it will make your head spin) we chose Naked  Taco.

Upon arriving at the restaurant we were immediately struck by the funky and fresh décor.  Their upholstered leather booths, painted tattooed lady bar backdrop, mustache  and glass skull light fixtures are all so very, very cool.   I loved how quirky and eclectic this place was.  Now, as for the food, well…the food is delicious, fresh, and plentiful!  We ordered a delicious array of tacos; the crispy baja fish, gordo pastor (pork belly), General Tso cauliflower, and Key West shrimp, and they were all spectacular, the one exception was the pork belly taco…it was way too fatty, but the bits that weren’t fatty were pretty fucking tasty! Emma ordered, hands down the best dish by far, the mariscos blanco enchilada…a culinary orgasm of lobster, shrimp and crab covered in Chihuahua cheese sauce…Jesus Christ!

We also ordered a fresh tomato and avocado salad, the quesa fundido (OMG SO DELICIOUS) as well as 2 pitchers of margaritas (Hey Lady and Cherry Popper) to wash it all down with.

Two things:
1) The food here is not your typical inexpensive Mexican fare, our lunch was expensive. I can’t remember the last time lunch cost me $100, but it was well worth it.
2) The margarita pitchers – we asked how many margaritas you would typically get from 1 pitcher and we were told 5 or 6.  Given that there were four of us, we ordered 2 pitchers, thinking we’d get 3 margaritas each over a 2 hour lunch – WRONG!  The pitchers are MASSIVE, we would have easily done well with 1 pitcher, but we ordered 2, so 2 pitchers we drank!

After stuffing ourselves (once again) you would think we wouldn’t have room for dessert.  Did I mention that they have churros on the menu?  Churros! Delicious, deep fried, sugar coated, piping fucking hot churros!  Yeah, we ate those too…why?  Because you have not truly lived my friends until you’re waiting in line at  airport security desperately searching for a trash can to puke into.

 

 

 

 

 

Island Hopping in Greece – As You Do…

Emma and I arrived in Greece over a week ago and we’ve been busy!  We started in Syros, then off to Mykonos, Paros, and Ios…as we wait for our ferry to Santorini, I thought I’d update you on what we’ve been up to.  By the way, EVERY island sells post cards with their name followed by “The Best Island” caption.  I thought I would assign categories to each of the islands we visited, in keeping with “The Best Island” theme.  You will notice that not a single island received a Best Island for WiFi access…it’s basically shit and in some places mega shit, that’s why it’s taken me so long to get this post up…just sayin’.

Syros – “The Best Island” for lazing around in the sun:

The beach located directly across the street from our hotel
The beach located directly across the street from our hotel
Arrived in Syros, our first stop in Greece, after over 12 hours of flights, waits, ferries and buses and it was so worth it.
Now there is one thing I want to mention as I feel I would be remiss in not bringing this to your attention. Traveling for any amount of time on a ferry or bus in Europe in the middle of summer is NOT glamorous, like at all. Every travel day we leave our hotel freshly showered in clean clothes and our spirits filled with hope that today’s travel experience will be different. It NEVER is. Every travel leg, be it on a plane, a bus, or a ferry it ways ends the same way. Emma and I sweaty and stinking, reduced to puddles and wanting nothing more than a shower and fresh clothes. Some days the trip is short and the shower and bathroom are clean and fresh towels are waiting while other days you end up sitting naked on a stool in a 3×3 foot stall that smells like it hasn’t seen the end of a cleaning brush in decades just praying that your skin doesn’t accidentally brush up against the wall or shower curtain while you attempt to wash the dirt away.  Lucky for us, since arriving in Greece we’ve had nothing but clean bathrooms and functioning showers, which makes me fear for what awaits. We’ve been a little too lucky over the last few days. It has me worried.
I’m not sure if it was the combination of the airport bathroom incident, the middle of the night flight, 3am arrival at Athens airport, the 1 hour bus ride to Piraeus port (the man drove like a ‘goddamn animal’, seriously luggage and people were jostled about the bus like balls in a lottery machine), the seemingly innocent glass enclosure on the ferry to Spyros – just a giant easy bake oven for us to slow roast in – but by the time we got to the island my feet were swollen to twice their normal size.
I spent the first night lying on the bed with my legs above my head against the wall to drain the blood from my feet.  It was surprisingly comfortable. Who knew that sleeping in an L-shape could be so restful? I awoke the next morning to normal size feet – yay!
Enjoying a beer while watching our first sunset in Syros
Enjoying a beer while watching our first sunset in Syros
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First sunset in Syros, Greece. This picture does not do it justice.
The next morning, Emma and I got right down to business, and by business I mean eating breakfast then finding wine and a spot on the beach conveniently located directly across the street from our hotel.
We spent the entire day lying on the sand and taking the occasional dip in the sea. The waters were crystal clear in the morning, however, by mid afternoon we noticed something was off. This idyllic setting was no longer. The first thing Emma pointed out was a dead frog floating in the water, upon closer inspection, we quickly realized that it was no dead frog. It was something much, much worse. To our horror, the thing floating toward us in the water was in fact a discarded tampon. As we quickly tried to create as much distance between us and the NOT A DEAD FROG, we then spotted more trash floating in the water – ice cream cone wrappers, a panty liner, plastic bottles, etc. It was as though someone threw a bag of trash into the water.  Our spot on the beach, which had been so beautiful earlier had almost instantaneously been transformed into a scene from some post-apocalyptic movie where the seas are filled with trash. Yuck!
(We were told later that afternoon that someone had cleaned things up.  Apparently, a passing boat had carelessly dumped their trash into the water…who does that?!  Anyway, there is a group of volunteers in Galissas who take care of the beach and do their best to keep it clean.  The mess was cleaned up rather quickly.)
Picturesque Galissas, Syros Greece
Picturesque Galissas, Syros Greece
Needless to say, we left the beach and retreated to our hotel across the street. While in Galissas we stayed at Maistrali Hotel, a small family run property. Our room cost us 90€ for 3 nights and it was a great value. Located directly across from the beach, small balcony at the back and breakfast buffet every morning for an additional 5€. The bathroom was good but the beds were really hard, as in one step above sleeping on a concrete slab. We were in room 1 which was right next to the reception desk. It was ok most of the time, however, the owner who often sat at reception behaved like a petulant child most days – shouting at guests and locals, annoyingly ringing the service bell whenever he wanted the staff to bring him something (most likely a drink because he appeared to be soused most of the time). He was also really flirty – offering to have me run away with him to the Maldives – What?!  He was so loud that one couple switched rooms in hopes that it would quieter, didn’t work. There really was no escape.
Our quaint little hotel in Galissas. Maistrali is a family owned hotel, with great rooms and a very good price.
Our quaint little hotel in Galissas. Maistrali is a family owned hotel, with great rooms and a very good price.
Galissas is a really quaint little town.  There really isn’t a lot to do there, but that was kind of the point. After the hustle and bustle of Prague, the change of pace was most welcome.
The town is mostly a tourist stop and appears to exist for that reason alone. The shops clearly cater to tourists selling all manner of souvenirs, postcards, beach towels and sunscreen. The restaurants all face the beach so you can take in the full magnificence of the sunsets on this island, and trust me, they are spectacular. The menus feature Greek food with some burgers and chicken nuggets thrown in for the less adventurous eaters.
While on Syros, we took a bus from Galissas to Megas Gialos a nearby beach town. Again, super small and quiet, but the beach was beautiful and CLEAN!  We had lunch and a beer (of course) while overlooking the beach. The bus ride was about 15 minutes and the fare was 1.90€ each way. Well worth it.
Megas Galios, Syros, Greece
Megas Galios, Syros, Greece
Chef's salad and a beer - just a light lunch given that we're in our bikinis and on the beach
Chef’s salad and a beer – just a light lunch given that we’re in our bikinis and on the beach
Dakos and beer, my light lunch...quite tasty.
Dakos and beer, my light lunch…quite tasty.
We spent every evening either drinking beer or wine and toasting the sunsets. On our last night in Galissas we climbed to the peak of the large hill overlooking the bay. At the top of this hill is a tiny white church and one of the most amazing views of the town below and the sun as it sets behind a nearby island. If you happen to glance to the left of the hill you will notice a tiny beach located in a small cove. The water looked so inviting and we may have considered checking it out the next day were it not for the colony of nude campers who had overtaken that tiny beach.
Cove beach as seen from the top of the hill
Cove beach as seen from the top of the hill
Picnicking at the top of the hill - a girl needs to eat after a long hike
Picnicking at the top of the hill – a girl needs to eat after a long hike
Sunset as seen from the top of the hill in Galissas
Sunset as seen from the top of the hill in Galissas
The church on the hilltop after sunset
The church on the hilltop after sunset
As we made our way back down the hill toward our hotel we couldn’t help but marvel at how serene the town below was.
Mykonos – “The Best Island” for people watching:
Arriving in Mykonos Town
Arriving in Mykonos Town
We boarded the ferry to Mykonos late morning and arrived at the port little more than an hour later. As we searched for our hotel transfer van, to no avail, I double checked our reservation confirmation email and discovered that we had arrived a day early!  No wonder they weren’t there to pick us up. As soon as we realized the droid, we set about finding accommodations for the night. Emma quickly found us a private room at the Paraga Beach Hostel next to Paradise Beach for only 15€ a night each!  Problem solved. If you ever arrive at one of he ports without lodging, do not fear.  There are always people there with offers of rooms to let – even in high season. Don’t be afraid to negotiate and you can get some pretty good deals, depending on where you are of course. Mykonos and Santorini shamelessly survive on tourism and there are very few deals to be found.
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Paraga Beach Hostel, Mykonos Greece
We arrived at Paraga Beach Hostel and it was awesome, well the pool and restaurant area was. The pool was surrounded by beach loungers and beautiful people.  The DJ added to the overall Cafe del mar feel of the place. We were walked by the pool and brought to our room and that is when the fantasy ended and the reality hit us. We would not be sleeping in a room, oh no, we were camping that night my friends. We were sleeping in a tent. No A/C, one light and a screen panel for a window. With military style cots for beds. No wifi either so no distraction from the environment whatsoever. We quickly changed into our bikinis and made our way to the restaurant/pool area and ordered the mixed grill plate for two – we were famished after all. The grill plate was the best idea we’d had all week it was piled high with chicken, sausage, meat balls, pork chops and fries and it was DELICIOUS!  After devouring the meat plate, we ordered a couple of beers and settled in poolside. Seriously, there is no better time to show off your bikini body than after you’ve eaten your weight in grilled sausages and french fries. Am I right?
How do you think I keep this bikini body...I just eat this!
How do you think I keep this bikini body…I just eat this!
After two beers worth of sun baking and quick dips in the pool we left the pool and walked over to Paradise Beach next door. The last time I was there was five years ago and a lot has changed. There are more bars and lounge chairs. Every bar is competing for your attention and your dollars. We settled in front of the Guapaloca bar to watch the Brazilian dancers. The host was entertaining and they were giving away free shots…so sure why not! We spent the rest of the day and most of the evening at Paradise Beach sipping beer, various cocktails and a bottle of rose. We ended up dancing the rest of the night away – the DJ was really good –  playing everything from rap to hip hop to dance.  We sang along and jumped around like idiots. It was awesome!
Overlooking the beach at Paraga Beach Hostel
Overlooking the beach at Paraga Beach Hostel
That night as we made our way back to our tent, we toyed with the idea of sleeping on one of the couches outside the club rather than return to the sweat lodge we were booked in. We went back to our ‘room’ turned on the useless fan and tried to sleep. It was almost impossible to do so. Our cots, despite being elevated about a foot still had us feeling like we were sleeping on the hard ground. How did they manage to do that?! Add to this the fact that the place was a party hostel and there was zero sleep to be had. At one point I swear I heard some guy bust out his ukulele to serenade a group of backpackers in the tent next to us.
After our sleepless night, we hopped aboard the free shuttle to the port to meet the shuttle to the hotel we were booked at for that night.  The owner of Maki’s Place greeted us at the shuttle and quickly whisked us away to the hotel which happened to be almost directly across the street from the port. His father, a bit of a curmudgeon, checked us in, all the while letting us know that we got a really good deal in the room (90€ it would normally be 150€) and that one night stays were pretty much the bane of his existence. Ok, we get it – we got a deal. Thanks for letting us know.  Once checked in, we made our way to our room and it was adorable!  The beds were hard as concrete – again. I began to wonder if concrete slabs as beds were a thing in Greece.
The pool at Maki's Place was unbelievable...so deep touching the bottom was a struggle.
The pool at Maki’s Place was unbelievable…so deep touching the bottom was a struggle.
The beds may have been hard as rocks, but everything else was perfect. The pool was located just outside our room. It was clean and deep and beyond refreshing.  After checking in and exploring the hotel, we changed out of our stinking and sweaty clothes and hopped in the sea bus to the old port in Mykonos Town. The sea bus cost 2€ and offered great views of the island as we made our way there.
Sightseeing and photo snapping in Mykonos
Sightseeing and photo snapping in Mykonos
Once in Mykonos Town we stopped in a few shops bought some bathing suits we didn’t need, some Havaianas we didn’t need and some food and wine that we definitely did need!  We walked through the small winding streets popping in and out of shops and snapping pictures of streetscapes and cats along the way.
Little Venice, Mykonos, Greece
Little Venice, Mykonos, Greece
I really wanted Emma to see Mykonos from the top of the hill and convinced her to climb the stairs to one of the vantage points above the town. It was so worth it!  After having our fill of stairs and picture taking we headed back to our hotel for a swim, cocktails and dinner. Our last night on Mykonos was pretty unadventurous but it ended with dinner and wine on a deck overlooking the water so not bad at all.
Panorama from the top of Mykonos...well worth the climb
Panorama from the top of Mykonos…well worth the climb
The next morning we checked out of our room and the curmudgeon who’d checked us in the day before had transformed into a funny and personable guy, I guess the people checking in that day had paid full price and were staying for multiple nights. Good for him, I ain’t mad at him. 🙂
Paros – “The Best Island” for shopping:
We arrived in Paros by ferry 2 days ago, hot, sweaty, stinky puddles – formerly human, now feral – and in desperate need of a shower and clean clothes. So our usual state, basically. The Stella Hotel where we are staying is the best place we’ve stayed at so far and at 89€ for 2 nights, it’s a bloody steal!  We have a balcony overlooking the sea, a bathroom with a full on stand up shower and ACTUAL MATTRESSES ON THE BEDS. They have springs and everything!
Our first day in Paros we explored the town a little, had lunch on the water – we ordered a mixed plate of appetizers and it was perfect. Various Greek dips and octopus salad with beer, of course. After lunch we stopped by the supermarket to pick up some food stuff like meats, cheeses, tomatoes, grapes and some canned stuffed grape leaves, just in case we were peckish later. Oh and we also bought a 1.5L bottle of wine for bargain price of €2.30. C’mon you know you were wondering! 🙂
Beers on the water, first thing we did in Paros - Shocking!
Beers on the water, first thing we did in Paros – Shocking!
Mixed Greek appetizer platter, with hummus, fava, spicy eggplant, spicy cheese, octopus salad
Mixed Greek appetizer platter, with hummus, fava, spicy eggplant, spicy cheese, octopus salad
Fried Haloumi, Emma's favourite!
Fried Haloumi, Emma’s favourite!
When we got back to the hotel we napped for a bit then snacked on the stuff we bought earlier as we watched the sun set from our terrace. After polishing off half the salami and tomatoes, along with the entire bottle of wine (to be fair this was over a period of several hours) we showered, dressed and then hit the town. It may be a small place, but they have a great bar scene.
We stopped at Entropy, it was rated as the #1 attraction on the island, according to TripAdvisor.
It was pretty easy to find, thanks to my phone GPS.  We walked in and there were all of 7 people in the bar, including the owners and the bartender. The first thing i noticed was the haze of cigarette smoke that filled the air. There were two young guys playing beer pong while the other patrons watched and cheered them on. We checked out the cocktail menu, and ordered a drink. Emma had the Wrong Island Ice Tea and I had the Tangerine Dream. They were both ok. We had high expectations for this place, given its high rating on TripAdvisor and I have to say we were disappointed. The owners were friendly and we chatted with them while we finished our drinks, but had zero desire to stick around – my eyes were watering and I felt like every breath was a direct drag off of someone’s ciggy, so we left as soon as we were done our drinks.
We walked around the neighbourhood and discovered this really cool, tiny bar on one of the rooftops over looking the waterfront. The place was packed with people of all ages and the music was pretty good, a very relaxed vibe. We ordered proscecco and settled in at one of the tiny tables to people watch for a bit.
After our proscecco, we walked along the water back to our hotel.
Of note, there are a lot of great shops in Paros and they’re open until quite late, around midnight.  You can find pretty much anything you’re looking for and at a reasonable price.
The next morning, we were up early to grab breakfast, shop and then hop the ferry to Antiparos where we would visit the caves and relax at Soros Beach.
The winds were high that day my friends and the sea angry. The ferry ride felt like a roller coaster ride. The ferry chugged along the water as large waves crashed up against it in all directions, tossing us from side to side. There were several occasions during the ride where the passengers screamed – in delight or fear – probably about 50/50.  One poor girl came and sat outside at the back of the ferry next to us, seasick.
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View from the ferry as we crossed over to Antiparos
Scene from our ferry crossing to Antiparos
Scene from our ferry crossing to Antiparos
Now the ferry ride normally takes about 10-15 minutes, but it took over 30 minutes that morning. 30 minutes of nausea inducing waves, bobs and rolls. We were very happy to have survived the crossing without puking over the side of the boat.
As soon as we arrived at the port we hopped the bus to the caves and Soros beach (6€ return fare).
Antiparos port
Antiparos port
The Cave of Antiparos was our first stop.
I have to admit that I wasn’t expecting much, but they were pretty amazing. The descent (411 steps) into the bottom of the caves was easy and the view was awesome.  The caves are comprised of 3 chambers with a total depth of 100m. The entire cave visit took about an hour and I snapped a ton of pictures.
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Entrance to St. John’s Caves, Antiparos
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Inside the cave, absolutely breathtaking

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Next we were off to Soros beach.  The beach itself is not very large and the place was packed. The beach loungers are available to rent for the day for 30€, so fuck that! We’re laying on the sand! We opted to find a spot on the beach next to a tree – I mean, under a shrub – which offered a nice beach view and some shade. Sounds ideal right? Well, in theory yes, but the ‘free’ shelter was very crowded and though we did manage finding a spot, the view wasn’t so great. Yes, I was in the shade next to the beach but every time I looked up all I could see was some guy’s ‘plumber’s butt’. Manscaping hasn’t really caught on in Greece.
Beach day at Soros Beach, Antiparos, the sand literally glitters.
The 30 euros/day loungers and the shrub we took shelter under.
Despite the view challenges, we did enjoy the beach day. The water was crystal clear and so refreshing. I was sad to leave, but I knew there were many more beach days ahead of us.
The ferry back across was much smoother than our trip over earlier in the day.
Later that night, we had dinner on the water – like literally on the water – the waves were lapping against the table legs while we enjoyed grilled fish and chicken. It was a clear night and the lights of the island dotted the surrounding hillsides while the silhouettes of the boats in the harbour bobbed in the water in front of our table.  It was a perfect final night in Paros.
Last sunset in Paros...glorious!
Last sunset in Paros…glorious!