Malaga has long been one of my absolute favourite destinations, if not for its beautiful old city centre than most definitely for its rich history and breathtaking views from atop the Gibralfaro.

We arrived in Malaga mid afternoon after a scenic train ride through the country side.  Upon arrival we checked into our room – booked through airbnb – located in the heart of the old city centre.  The room was located in an airy third floor walk up with tall ceilings, an adorable kitchen and spacious living room with large windowed doors opening up to two balconies overlooking the cobblestone streets below.  Our room was adorably decorated in whitewashed finish with a large cupboard for our clothes and the most comfortable beds ever – and lets not forget, real, actual pillows…like actual foam pillows.  If I’d had room in my backpack, they may have accidentally made their way into my luggage.  Mornings were an absolute delight at this place, we enjoyed our breakfasts in the company of other guests and sharing travel stories with them…loved this place.

After checking in we made our way to Confederation Square located in the heart of Malaga, one of my favourite spots to people watch.  We promptly sat down at a table on one of the restaurant terraces overlooking the square and ordered a pitcher of sangria and plate of battered and fried whitebaits…absolutely scrumptious!  We lingered there for most of the afternoon musing about our adventure so far and what we should explore while staying in Malaga.

We had initially planned a day trip to Morocco from Malaga, but soon discovered that we wouldn’t have enough time to do so.  Luckily for us, this would give us time to explore the Alcazaba and the Castillo de Gibralfaro instead.  The Alcazaba is a former palace-fortress dating back to 1057 and was occupied by the Muslim governors during their time in Spain.  Easily walkable and bargain as you can visit both sites for less than 3 euros – if you are willing to wait until later in the afternoon to make the climb to the Castillo de Gibralfaro as entrance  is free after 2pm.  We decided to explore both the following day.

That evening, we decided to check out the tapas scene in Malaga and made our way to El Tapy, a local tapas bar which was highly rated on Yelp because of it’s varied menu and cheap eats.  What. A. Shit. Show. The place was crowded and our server ushered us to a tiny table in the back room, crammed up against another table.  It was so crammed that the guy at the next table kept hitting me in the back with his elbow every time he took a drink from his wine glass and he and his friend had just ordered another full bottle of wine!  We ordered two beers which were brought to us fairly quickly, they were ice cold and accompanied by, quite possibly, the most gag inducing plate of paella I’ve ever had the misfortune of putting in my mouth.  I’m afraid it was time to call time on El Tapy.  We downed our beers and spent the next 20 minutes trying to flag down our server in order to get our bill.  Emma literally, no joke, had to tackle another server in order to finally get our bill.  We made haste out of there and off to a quaint little tapas placed we had walked by earlier in the evening, Vineria Cervantes.

It was brilliant!  We were seated at a small table outside (perfect for people watching) and given a menu.  Now the challenges was in choosing something since every plate that passed by our table looked mouth watering and every dish described on the menu sounded delicious.  We finally decided on the battered prawns with treacle and a coriander mayonnaise and the Argentine steak with tomatoes and roasted potatoes, paired with a Rioja tinto – Biga ‘crianza’.   Their wine list was quite impressive, with many wines available by the glass, so choosing a wine was a bit of an effort, but our server was extremely knowledgeable and quite helpful in helping us choose the right wine.

The prawns were incredibly tasty with the sweetness of the treacle playing off nicely against the tang of the coriander mayo.  The steak was cooked to perfection and though the tomatoes and roast potatoes were nice, the star of the dish was the spicy chimichurri sauce served alongside, it was heaven.  The entire meal brought a tear to my eye, it was so freakin’ good, with the Rioja capping off an absolutely wonderful meal in Malaga.

It’s worth a mention that we ordered the half plates and we did not leave hungry.

Our first step the following day was the Picasso Museum, a permanent Picasso exhibit on display in the artist’s childhood home.  Picasso lived in Malaga as a child, left to pursue his art and returned to Malaga only once at the age of 19.  The family home was restored and now houses approximately 250 of his oeuvres, generously donated by his family trust. The price is 7 euros and includes the audioguide, which was very informative and offered a great deal of insight into his personal life, his creative process and his progression as an artist.  Touring the museum takes about an hour to 90 minutes and not only includes his paintings, but also features a few of his sculptures and a large collection of his pottery which was donated to the museum by his widow.  The pottery was quite interesting, but the room in which it is housed was the showstopper, as they feature  beautiful murals and gilded ceilings.  Absolutely stunning.  Of note, the museum also features some pretty interesting temporary exhibits from time to time.  Last time I was there, the Dennis Hopper photography exhibit was on offer, and this time they were featuring Louise Bourgeois’ I’ve Been to Hell and Back .

The museum also houses an archaeological dig in the basement, discovered while the home was being restored, displaying remains from the Roman wall which at one time surrounded the city.   Though the display itself is quite small, it’s well worth a visit.

Our next stop was the Alcazaba, a palace cum fortress constructed in the early 11th century to house the Muslim emperors who ruled the region at that time.  If you plan on visiting this place, be sure to set aside at least a couple of hours and make the hike up the hillside to the Castillo de Gibralfaro as well for some stunning views of the city.  Both are amazing examples of Moorish architecture and an absolute must.  We also took advantage of the small cafe on site and took a much deserved sangria break under the shade of the trees and overlooking the city below.  Delightful!

After a full day of sightseeing, what better way to cap of the day then drinks on the roof of the Marriott hotel followed by dinner at one of the oldest restaurants in the city.  Our hosts had recommended the rooftop at the Marriott and it did not disappoint.  We were treated to 360 degree sweeping views of the city below while we sipped our sangrias and watched dusk turn into night.

Later, we made our way to El Chinitas, one of the oldest restaurants in Malaga.  The restaurant specializes in seafood and has an extensive wine list.  Prices are what you would expect to pay in the touristy part of the city, but the food was good and we were treated to a delicious meal on the terrace. We shared a mixed tapas appetizer plate featuring fish, meat, beans and sausages and each had a fish plate.  I ordered the sole meuniere and Emma ordered their deep fried seafood platter.  I wish I could say the food was amazing, but sadly it was not.  My fish was average at best and the appetizer selection was less than stellar, though Emma appeared to enjoy her seafood plate.

Following dinner, we walked through its cobblestone streets, exploring the many bars and terraces where locals and tourists alike commiserate over sangria and the music from the clubs spills out into the streets.  The perfect end to our last day in this beautiful place.